This recipe and photography was provided courtesy of local cookbook author and chef, Carla Snyder. Learn more about Carla and discover her recipes at Ravenouskitchen.com.
Winter might actually be one of my favorite seasons. Cold and snow are challenging, but then winter is also citrus season. From October to March the produce bins are piled high with colorful lemons, limes, grapefruits and fabulous varieties of oranges from Clementines to Satsumas. With so many kinds of citrus to choose from winter may be cold, but never boring.
I wrote a book titled Sweet and Tart a few years ago featuring desserts and savory dishes made from citrus. After buying bushels of citrus in the bins at my local Heinen’s, I realized that it’s not only the juice but the zest of citrus that carries amazing flavor so I promptly began to zest all citrus. The crisper bins in my fridge were over flowing with naked citrus as I started adding zest to everything. Now, I never squeeze a lemon, orange or lime without zesting it first, transferring all that citrus flavor to sauces, dressings, desserts, salads and vegetable dishes. While the juice adds acidity and tang, the zest holds essential oils from the fruit as fragrant as perfume. Adding the zest to recipes adds complexity without adding more tartness. It makes a lemon, orange or lime-flavored dish more complete.
So, since you will be zesting and juicing like crazy when making recipes and enjoying citrus this season a few tips may be in order.
- Keep citrus in a cool place. At times I will place it in a bowl to look at for a few days because it’s so beautiful, but then relent and place it in the crisper drawer where it will keep for a longer period of time.
- For the juiciest fruit, choose fruit that feels heavy in your hand.
- For the best zest, pick thick skinned fruit; for the most juice pick thin skinned fruit. You can judge this by feel. Thick skinned citrus is firmer and not as heavy. Their skin is usually more dimpled. Feel around in the pile, choose citrus that are not too hard. They should be squeezable.
- Always zest before squeezing. It’s so much easier.
- When zesting, use organic citrus or wash it really well to remove pesticides and wax.
- Room temperature citrus yields the most juice. You can microwave fruit for 30 seconds to warm up.
- An average lemon will yield about 3 to 4 tablespoons juice and about 1 tablespoon zest. A lime will yield 1 to 2 tablespoons juice and 1 to 2 teaspoons zest. An orange will yield 1/3 cup/75 ml to 1/2 cup/120 ml juice and 1 1/2 tablespoons zest. Of course, these are averages so always buy a few extra to make sure you have enough.
- A microplane will be the best tool you ever bought. It effortlessly takes just the peel and not the bitter pith that lies underneath. I promise you will never be sorry to give it space in your gadget drawer.
- A citrus squeezer is a wonderful too because it helps you to squeeze the juice efficiently while trapping the seeds, saving you time.
- Another useful tool is a wooden reamer. Or try a low-tech fork. Stick the tines in the cut citrus and squeeze while twisting the fork.
- Fine and medium mesh strainers are handy to separate the seeds and pulp from citrus juice.
I love to eat citrus out of hand. There’s nothing like a chilled clementine orange as a snack or part of lunch or breakfast, but citrus has many roles in my kitchen such as adding a squeeze of lemon or lime to soups. It’s amazing how the acid ramps up flavor. Winter baking wouldn’t be nearly as exciting without citrus tinged scones, muffins, breads and cakes. Salads come alive with the addition of orange and grapefruit sections. Try roasting a chicken with thinly sliced lemon; it perfumes the bird like no other ingredient, the crispy bits of lemon all browned and chewy. Toss thinly sliced orange with sweet potato or hard squash and roast for a simple but elegant side dish. Use citrus juice in salad dressings for a livelier take on vinaigrette.
Below is a chart with some of the more popular citrus in your local Heinen’s. Those bins of citrus will begin to wane as the weather warms, so make the most of citrus season while it’s here and try something new. You just might discover a new favorite.
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