Heinen’s Road Less Traveled: Finger Lakes
Heinen’s wine team recently took a trip to one of our neighboring states, New York, to immerse ourselves in an educational experience in the Finger Lakes. A short scenic 4-hour drive from Cleveland, we were amazed by the area’s history, the unique, terroir-driven wines being produced, and the efforts of local wineries to maintain sustainable, responsible farming for years to come.
We visited several wineries, all family-owned and operated. They all focus on producing wines unlike any other in the nation. It is not often that seasoned professionals in our wine departments are taken aback by what we experienced, but we were! Come explore the Finger Lakes region with us and discover the same world-class wines that we did.
GEOLOGICAL HISTORY
Formed by slow-moving glaciers nearly 2 million years ago, the Finger Lakes in upstate New York provide a very unique growing opportunity for grapes. The weather conditions, not unlike those in Ohio, are generally pretty inhospitable for growing grapes. The growing season is short, and starts late due to frosts and cool temps.
Enter the Finger Lakes! The lakes themselves are a geological phenomenon; they are not particularly large, but their depth is unique. Seneca Lake, for instance, is over 3 times deeper than Lake Erie! This proves invaluable when growing wine grapes; since the lakes are so deep, they rarely freeze, and help regulate temperature nearby. They allow the nearby vineyards to stay warmer than exposed areas in the winter and spring, and help keep the vines cooler in the summer. This phenomenon is the reason that they are able to grow grapes in the region.
There is a saying in the Finger Lakes that if the vines can see the lake, they are safe. So, the hills surrounding all 4 Finger Lakes are well-suited for growing premium wine grapes.
GRAPE GROWING HISTORY
The first grapes were planted in the Finger Lakes in the late 1800’s. They were focused on large yields, low quality, and using domestic American grapes. They produced wines of low quality, mainly for sacramental wine or jug wine consumption. A tremendous amount of “American” fortified wines, like Taylor Port and Sherry, were produced here during that time and through Prohibition.
Then, in the 1960’s, several European winemakers recognized the potential of the area to be elevated, and they planted European varietals, like Riesling. Pioneers of the time were Konstantin Frank and Hermann Wiemer. With their efforts, growers started to realize the potential of the area and started planting more cool-weather varietals, like pinot noir, cabernet franc, and chardonnay. Wiemer also recognized that since the area naturally produced wines with higher acidity and lower alcohol, they could produce amazing champagne-like sparkling wines.
The area has flourished for the last 4 decades and is now home to some of the most unique wines in the United States.
ANTHONY ROAD WINERY
Named for the literal road the winery sits on, this was founded in 1973 by the Martini Family. Originally focused on bulk production grapes for fortified wines, the family quickly recognized the potential of the Finger Lakes. They are now a second-generation winery, as their four sons and daughters are now all running various aspects of the business.
On our visit, John and Ann Martini greeted us warmly and launched into the 50-year history of their property. We quickly fell in love with their two blends, Devonian Red and White. “Devonian” refers to the Devonian geological period, where sedimentary rock was deposited in the region millions of years ago. The red is a blend of Cabernet Franc and Lemberger (a lesser-known red varietal). It’s dry, medium-bodied, and has delicious notes of black cherry, plum, and black pepper. Put a chill on it and drink with burgers! The white blend combines Riesling, Chardonnay, and Pinot Gris in a fresh, dry, aromatic wine that is perfect for enjoying on its own or with light summer fare.
On the more serious side, we loved their Anthony Road Cabernet Franc! Dry, medium-bodied, and with a surprisingly complex note of smoke and dried herbs, this does great with all sorts of grilled meats. The Anthony Road Pinot Noir is as elegant as anything from Oregon or California; red cherry, blood orange, and baking spices abound in this. Try with salmon or duck!
HERMANN WIEMER WINERY
Founded by Hermann in the 1970’s, he actually started his winemaking career in the US at Bully Hill (another Finger Lakes Winery). As he recognized the potential of the region, he began creating a nursery, a farm, and a winery under his own name, and in 1980, he produced his first vintage. He has never looked back and has been crafting wines of exemplary quality while paying homage to his German heritage.
Today, the winery is one of less than 5 in the US that still owns its own nursery and sells grafted vines to wineries all over the nation. They are focused on herbicide-free farming, sustainable practices, hand harvesting, and producing vegan-friendly wines. We started with a glass of their Cuvee Brut, a champagne-method sparking wine made of traditional champagne grapes (chardonnay and pinot noir). Eyes closed, you’d be hard pressed not to call this champagne! The Finger Lakes region mimics the weather of Champagne, and the resulting sparkling wine is complex; it spends almost 4 years aging in the bottle to develop that complexity.
Equally stunning is the “Flower Day” Riesling we discovered on our trip to the winery. Not previously released to the general market, we knew we had to have it in our stores. It is their first DEMETER certified wine, indicating full accredited biodynamic practices in the vineyards. This certification is one of the most strict in terms of responsible and regenerative farming, and one of the very few in the US that can claim. It is dry, aromatic, naturally lower in alcohol, and a stunner. Easily one of our favorite wines of the trip.
For those who prefer a little kiss of sweetness in their wines, Hermann Wiemer also produces a semi-sweet Riesling. Loaded with flavors of stone fruit and lush aromatics, a kiss of residual sweetness makes this excellent with spicy foods, like Indian or Chinese. It also loves sushi! No summer wine selection would be complete without a dry rosé, and the Hermann Wiemer Dry Rosé was our favorite. Predominantly pinot noir, this bright, fresh rosé should be your new favorite summer pairing for salads and charcuterie.
Try these Wines Today
The Finger Lakes visit was one of the most eye-opening trips our team has ever had. While Heinen’s has sent its team all over the world to established areas with hundreds of years of history, it’s truly exciting to visit a region and discover quality products that are literally in our own backyard! They are crafted with the same care and quality as the world’s most well-known vineyards. This was truly a “discovery” for the Heinen’s wine team, and the excitement to bring the wines back to our stores and share them is palpable!
